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SNES schematics for shvc-cpu-01 super famicom?

clueless

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I recaped a shvc super famicom (the one with the add-on audio circuit) with some leaky capacitors. I managed though to lift the pad and some part of the trace for the negative side of c57. Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for this board or tell me where this trace goes to patch it up?
 

gorgyrip

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C57 is in parallel with C58
 

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clueless

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4 months later, I realize that I asked for the wrong capacitors :eek:
The pad that tore off is the positive leg from c60. From the schematics that gorgyrip provided, I see that it is on parallel with c59

I'm not an expert with schematics reading/understanding though. Do I need to run a patch cable from r45 AND a patch to the via that goes to r42? I tried soldering just a patch from the positive leg of c59 to the positive of c60. All I get is a black screen with no sound
 

gorgyrip

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Are you using a s-video cable? If you're using composite, than the problem is not with c59/c60.
Since you've replaced the caps, check around c57/c58 for corrosion and for continuity.
Also check the via for the - of C57. As you can see in my picture, in my case was in bad condition.

And here's a picture of your board. As you can see, you can connect c60 directly to c59 (assuming the traces from c59 to the vias are ok) Or use just one 220uf cap.
 

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clueless

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Are you using a s-video cable? If you're using composite, than the problem is not with c59/c60.
Since you've replaced the caps, check around c57/c58 for corrosion and for continuity.
Also check the via for the - of C57. As you can see in my picture, in my case was in bad condition.

And here's a picture of your board. As you can see, you can connect c60 directly to c59 (assuming the traces from c59 to the vias are ok) Or use just one 220uf cap.
I use an rgb cable that is confirmed working properly.

Thanks for the close-up photo of the board by the way. As I can see the caps are directly connected. I'll use my multimeter to check continuity between 58 and 59, as they seem to be connected too.

I suspect that my console's current issue is related with the cart connector, as it is kinda flaky. Whatever held the connector in place, was broken loose when I dissasembled the console. I'll have to borrow the connector form another snes I have to check that
 

gorgyrip

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If it's a standard rgb cable (not modded to use sync from luma), than c59/c60 don't matters and you should have an image.
You should also have audio (my led tv doesn't have sound if there is no sync. my crt has sound even if I connect only the audio)
Maybe it's the cart connector, or maybe a broken trace/via, but there are very high chances that the cpu is bad.
Do you have the sound board connected? many games don't boot without it.
 
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clueless

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A little update. I checked for continuity between c58 and 59, and it seems fine. I then soldered a patch cable between 59 and 60, gave everything a good clean, as well a good push to all connectors.
With the console dissasembled, I powered it on for a brief time. The game booted normally, with video and sound.
Then, I assembled everything back , powered on the console (with the same game), but it won't boot again.

So I guess, the connector might be causing all the trouble. Couldn't test it though, as my other pal console has a later revision type of the connector that is directly soldered to the board.
I don't think that it might have a bad cpu. I remember running the test cart rom through my sd2snes, but didn't report anything wrong. I'm not 100% sure if it is still ok, since we are dealing with 30 years old electronics.

I'm now trying to source a replacement connector, but I can't seem to source one compatible with my console revision. Living in a European country makes things even tougher, as I don't wont to pay double the price for a 5-6 dollars part on custom duties
 

gorgyrip

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If the console booted, the cpu is good.
I have never seen a connector that's unrepairable.
I don't think you will find an original connector for 5-6 usd.
Where are you from?
 

clueless

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How can I straiten the pins on the connector? The gap between them is small to place a screwdriver or something.
A tool with a small needle tip, like a dental pick , is optimal for the job?
Also, I'm thinking of soaking it in white vinegar with baking soda. It seems to have some hint of corrosion.

I'm located in Greece
 

gorgyrip

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If the pins are bent, it doesn't worth the effort.
Corrosion I only had on the part that goes to the board.
I'll sent you a PM.
 

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